I'm extremely new to 3D printing, or I probably would have realized this much sooner,but the blanket advice to print at 60-80 degrees is absolutely awful. It may be good for certain printers and/or certain filaments, but on a well dialed in (I spent an entire weekend on calibration of my printer and filament) Creality Ender 3 v3 KE running OrcaSlicer using PETG it produces very ugly top edges and the supports are a nightmare to remove no matter what type you use. Even worse, despite painting the bottom and inside faces of the stems to have no supports, the holes end up filled with support material that has to be cut away with an X-acto knife. I tried the entire 20 degree range in 2.5 degree increments, and I was having to spend an average of 20 minutes per cap to get them just usable--and I was then looking at no telling how long to sand and polish them to make them look good.
After 25-30 hours of trying every variation I could--and that is where being new probably held me back--I thought that since I was getting my best results when using 60 degrees, maybe I should ignore the advice here and use the quasi-standard 45 degrees. And since I was also seeing better results printing in small batches, I also ignored the advice not to print only one. It was like magic! The tree supports peeled off easily with just my fingers, the surfaces were gorgeous with no further work needed, and it snapped right down on a stem with no trimming.
I've now printed the right half of my board 5 at a time using Print by Object at 45 degrees with only minor 30 second cleanup needed for a few caps. I've done a bit of reading and I think my experience will hold true on most printers that use PETG. Maybe the settings you show are good for PLA, which us a lot less stringy. I think removing your recommendations for 60-80 degrees and preferring multiples, or adding a disclaimer stating the specific test conditions would be a great help to many people.
The profile itself is great. I was printing three different "ergonomic" profile to see which I liked best. All are really good, but CLP is definitely my favorite for non-keywell boards. The only improvement I might like to see is a deeper concavity on the Saddle--about like the KLP Lamé.
I'm extremely new to 3D printing, or I probably would have realized this much sooner,but the blanket advice to print at 60-80 degrees is absolutely awful. It may be good for certain printers and/or certain filaments, but on a well dialed in (I spent an entire weekend on calibration of my printer and filament) Creality Ender 3 v3 KE running OrcaSlicer using PETG it produces very ugly top edges and the supports are a nightmare to remove no matter what type you use. Even worse, despite painting the bottom and inside faces of the stems to have no supports, the holes end up filled with support material that has to be cut away with an X-acto knife. I tried the entire 20 degree range in 2.5 degree increments, and I was having to spend an average of 20 minutes per cap to get them just usable--and I was then looking at no telling how long to sand and polish them to make them look good.
After 25-30 hours of trying every variation I could--and that is where being new probably held me back--I thought that since I was getting my best results when using 60 degrees, maybe I should ignore the advice here and use the quasi-standard 45 degrees. And since I was also seeing better results printing in small batches, I also ignored the advice not to print only one. It was like magic! The tree supports peeled off easily with just my fingers, the surfaces were gorgeous with no further work needed, and it snapped right down on a stem with no trimming.
I've now printed the right half of my board 5 at a time using Print by Object at 45 degrees with only minor 30 second cleanup needed for a few caps. I've done a bit of reading and I think my experience will hold true on most printers that use PETG. Maybe the settings you show are good for PLA, which us a lot less stringy. I think removing your recommendations for 60-80 degrees and preferring multiples, or adding a disclaimer stating the specific test conditions would be a great help to many people.
The profile itself is great. I was printing three different "ergonomic" profile to see which I liked best. All are really good, but CLP is definitely my favorite for non-keywell boards. The only improvement I might like to see is a deeper concavity on the Saddle--about like the KLP Lamé.