Mikehindley3 drill update

docs/equipment/cnc/chunky_cnc/Aux_Control_Cabinet.md

@@ -0,0 +1,23 @@
+This is the information and schematics doc for the CNC Auxiliary Control Panel located on the right side of the enclosure above the emergency stop. 
+
+ELECTRICAL WARNING: The inside of this panel is 240VAC. This is dangerous voltage and should be unlocked only by competent persons. The cabinet is locked and should be kept locked.
+
+WARNING: This panel is critical infrastructure. Maintainers should consult the team leader before opening it. They should also  heed the electrical warning above.
+
+The auxiliary control Panel is isolated from the CNC itself and is served by a different circuit. Despite the LED's on the panel, the 12VDC PSU inside is not connected to any battery, and no battery is present within the enclosure. Beware when opening the enclosure that wiring is tight, and to not yoink it open. 
+
+The incoming AC (1.5mm2) comes into the rocker switch and the other side of the rocker switch terminates on the wagos. The 3d printed wago mounts are coloured red, blue, and green for live, neutral, and earth. The earth also has a termination point on the cabinet screw. The wagos power the switches and the internal 12VDC PSU
+
+The switches are all 4 pole, meaning they each have an incoming and outgoing live and neutral. They are rated for up to 70VDC as well as AC, but be careful when putting >24VDC/a lot of current over them. The switch off (bottom) positions have the incoming connections for the appliances, whilst the switch on (top) positions have power provided from the WAGO's.
+
+Outside the panel, the LEDS are served by a C13/C14 (kettle lead male and female) pairing for a quick disconnect, and the extractor is served by a C19/C20 pairing (an industrial high capacity version of the above). Any maintainer can safely disconnect these for maintenance , and if you find them disconnected, please just reconnect. The ventilation fan (mounted on the wall to outside) is directly wired to the panel, so there is no disconnect.
+
+The Thermometer has a direct run to the coolant line for the spindle. There is plenty of extra room in the cable (next to the main cnc enclosure)
+
+The switch layout is as follows from left to right: (as you view the closed panel) All switches are AC except for 4.
+
+1.  Ventilation Fan 
+2. Main LED Light for CNC Enclosure
+3. Extractor/Vacuum
+4. The thermometer (This is running at 12VDC, not AC)
+5. Dummy - Not connected yet

docs/equipment/metalwork/equipment/air_compressor.md

@@ -15,5 +15,6 @@ List](file:SealeyCompressorPartsList.pdf "wikilink")
 [Air Compressor Risk Assessment](https://docs.google.com/document/d/1zPJD8DYkzc9iH53_FweLr2BQUe3YvoNJkPMdaXPh1iY/edit?usp=sharing)
 
 
+
 [Category:Equipment](Category:Equipment "wikilink")
 [Category:Stubs](Category:Stubs "wikilink")

docs/equipment/metalwork/equipment/metal_bandsaw.md

@@ -68,6 +68,7 @@ a lid, and metal bandsaw written on the top
 
 ### TODO
 
+
 #### spares
 
 I Think I've managed to identify which spares we're missing for the saw

docs/equipment/metalwork/equipment/pillar_drill.md

@@ -1,18 +1,82 @@
 # Pillar Drill
 
-There are two pillar drills in Metalwork
+The pillar drill (also known as a drill press) is one of the most useful tools in the workshop. It can drill into metal much more easily than a hand drill, but staying safe and making the most of the tool require some knowledge.
 
-This drill is a much larger drill that can be used for metal / wood, for
-drilling thick materials or where more clearance is required.
+This guide outlines safety principles of the drill and provides some tips.
 
-Drill chuck is MT2 (morse taper MT2)
+To use the drill, you will need to pass a short online quiz. This can be found on the [tool page of the members portal](https://members.hacman.org.uk/equipment/pillar-drill) by clicking the *Request induction* button. Read the information here, then take the quiz and follow the instructions to get access to the drill.
 
-  - <https://littlemachineshop.com/reference/tapers.php>
+## Checks before use
+Before you even turn the machine on, check your surroundings and the machine's state.
 
-original drill chuck is 5/8ths of an inch or 0.625" or 16mm
-which is the size of the maximum drill bit that will fit in the chuck
+### Are you safe?
+ - **Wear eye protection**. Drilling metal will create small metal chips (called swarf) that are thrown in all directions.
+ - No loose clothing, jewellery or hair
+ - **Tight fitting gloves** can protect your hands when handling sharp metal workpieces and swarf, but they can reduce sensitivity and become entangled in moving parts. Consider using gloves only when it is safe to do so.
+ - **Use hearing protection** if required. Usually, drilling metal does not produce loud noises.
 
-### Risk Assessments
-[Pillar Drill](https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ig6mghyfCGQnn0kOcE3Z2foC5rsd1CZbelOLopmDXX4/edit?usp=sharing)
+### Is the machine safe?
+ - Ensure the table is free of offcuts, oil, or unnecessary tools.
+ - Just as when using any tool, check that the cable and machine are in good overall condition.
 
-[Category:Equipment](Category:Equipment "wikilink")
+## Basic functions & setup
+ - **Switch:** This turns the drill on and off.
+ - **Table:** Can be raised and lowered to accommodate workpieces of different sizes. The crank handle on the right raises and lowers the table, and the lock on the left secures it at that height. 
+ - **Feed handle:** Pull the wheel towards you to lower the chuck and drill into the work. Release gently and allow the spring to raise the chuck. Do not let go of the handle!
+ - **The chuck:** Insert the bit and tighten all three holes of the chuck with the chuck key. Ensure the bit is centred in all three jaws and not pinched off-centre between two jaws. This will be very apparent once the drill is turned on.   
+
+    Always remove the key immediately—it becomes a dangerous projectile if left in. The chuck key is physically chained to the machine, so it cannot get lost.  
+
+     The chuck is covered by a chuck guard. This should be carefully flipped up and down when access to the chuck is needed.
+
+![](images/overall.jpg)
+
+### Workholding
+Never hold the workpiece with your hands. Use the supplied drill vices, toggle clamps or G-clamps to secure your metal to the table. The vices must be bolted down.
+*Note the use of a small piece of wood to provide the necessary packing under the toggle clamp in the second image below.*
+
+![](images/vices.jpg)
+
+![](images/toggle.jpg)
+
+![](images/gcramp.jpg)
+
+ > **Clamping work is not a suggestion – it is mandatory.** Drills frequently “grab” onto metal, especially when breaking through thin sheet. If work it not clamped when a drill grabs, the piece will spin out of your hand, becoming a dangerous, sharp, fast-moving hazard that can badly injure you.
+
+### Depth stop
+To set a depth stop, loosen the bolt, slide the ring around to your desired depth, and tighten the bolt back. Our drill is quite old, so this is marked in inches.
+
+### Speed (RPM)
+To get a clean cut in metal, you need to match the drill’s speed (of rotation) to the size of hole and the metal you will be drilling into.
+
+Metal requires slower speeds than wood. And larger bits need slower speeds. 
+
+A table providing guidance is installed behind the drill.
+
+![](images/speedchart.jpg)
+
+Speeds are adjusted by moving belt positions on the pulley under the top cover.
+
+![](images/cover.jpg)
+
+First, loosen the pinch bolts on each side of the drill, then turn the handle to bring the motor forwards. This slackens the belts and allows them to be moved.
+
+![](images/motor_levers.jpg)
+
+Move the belts to achieve the desired speed for your operation.
+
+**Tip:** Belts can be difficult to move. It helps to slip the belt onto smaller pulleys to provide the necessary slack, then “walk” it back onto the larger pulleys while turning the pulleys by hand.
+
+Then you must re-tighten the belt by moving the motor backwards. In most cases, it will only move a few centimetres. Then, tighten up the two pinch bolts again.
+
+## Safe operation and tips
+-  **Mark your spot:** Use a center punch to create a small indent in the metal. This prevents the drill bit from "wandering."
+- **Start small:** For large holes, drill a smaller "pilot hole" first. 6mm is a good starting size, then work up in 3mm increments. Our drill is not designed for holes larger than about 13mm.
+- **The "peck" method:** Apply steady pressure, but frequently lift the bit slightly to break up long, sharp metal shavings (swarf).
+- **Coolant:** If drilling steel, use a drop of cutting oil (blue can) to keep the bit cool and prolong its life. For aluminium, isopropyl alcohol can help.
+
+## Emergency procedures
+- **Snagging:** Metal drill bits frequently “grab” the work. This is especially common when breaking through sheet metal, so clamping work down is mandatory 100% of the time.   
+
+  If the drill bit grabs the metal and starts spinning the workpiece, do not grab it. Step back and hit the stop button.
+- **Power failure:** In the event of a power failure, the drill will stop running. **YOU MUST TURN THE DRILL OFF AT THE SWITCH IF THIS HAPPENS.** If you do not, the drill will restart as soon as power is restored. This could startle a user, or even worse, cause an injury if a user is touching or near the machine – especially if it happens many hours later.